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Fagundes farmstead cheese receives national award

HANFORD CA   Sept 2000 - Move over Kraft, there's a new cheese in town.
Fagundes Old-World Cheese Company may be the new kid on the block, but its full flavor taste recalls a time when cheese was made with attention to detail then aged to perfection.

John Fagundes IV is the chief creator of numerous cheese varieties made just a half mile from the family's dairy herd. The milk, used to make these specialty cheeses, is so fresh it's still warm from the cows. Fagundes takes milk from a selected string of cows within his herd and uses only their morning milk to make the cheese. He believes the cows are less stressed in the morning which improves the quality of the milk.

"When we make cheese, the milk is only minutes from the cow," he says. "The advantage is knowing the health of our cows and using the best milk possible. The best milk comes from cows in the middle of their lactation which gives us higher protein and fat ratios that are better for cheese making. This ensures better tasting cheese the way cheese was meant to taste."

The cheese, he explains, is made from raw milk and aged for 60 days which equals the safety of pasteurization without destroying the good enzymes or flavorides during that process. An added plus, to making cheese from their own cows' milk, is knowing exactly what they have been fed. He can also state unequivocally that the milk contains no artificial hormones or preservatives, something large cheese factories have no control over. Fagundes adds the way he makes cheese is the same way most European cheese is created.

Fagundes graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo in 1976. In 1999, he attended a California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB) seminar on the profitability of making and selling traditional farmstead cheese. Determined to diversify his marketing strategies, he went back to school to learn the art of cheese making.. Fagundes enrolled in various cheese making courses at Cal Poly and University of California, Davis to acquire the basics of making cheese. To further his education and master the art of creating fine cheese, Fagundes visited other farmstead cheese makers locally and in the Azores. He gained critical first hand experience as he made cheese side by side with them throughout the entire process.

Making old world style cheese is, in a sense, returning Fagundes to his roots. Years ago members of his family made cheese in a similar fashion on the small island of Sao Jorge in the Azores. To commemorate his heritage, Fagundes styled his first two cheeses after traditional Portuguese varieties. St. John, his first release, imparts a smooth, creamy, mild flavor. Its consistency is similar to a young English cheddar and has excellent melting qualities. The St. Jorge cheese, the second one Fagundes created, captures the essence of Sao Jorge imparting a complex taste perfect for hors d'oeuvres or served alone.

Other varieties he produces include Farmhouse Cheddar with a rich, unique flavor, St. John with Jalapeno for a zesty addition to any meal and St. John San Joaquin flavored with roasted garlic, red bell pepper and cilantro. St. John Santa Fe, the award winning cheese, is seasoned with cayenne pepper, cumin and roasted garlic. Recently Fagundes started producing Queso Fresco. It along with the Hanford Jack, with its smooth texture and refreshing taste, are currently the only cheeses he makes with pasteurized milk since they are best eaten fresh.

Carol Collar, University of California Cooperative Extension dairy advisor in Kings County, says the county is currently sixth in the state for overall dairy production. Herds grew during 1999, but value decreased, from 1998 figures, due to lower prices
"Anytime someone can create an opportunity to improve profitability it's good," she says of the advisory board's efforts to encourage the production of farmstead cheese.

Adri Boudewyn, chief executive officer of CMAB says by 2004 California will become the largest cheese producing state, surpassing Wisconsin. In 1995 he started looking ahead and determined it would become the board's goal to make California a nationally recognized cheese region with a strong reputation for quality. He points to the wine industry's blueprint for success in changing the way people perceive California wine and is utilizing this method to create a similar positive image for the state's cheese. Boudewyn's three prong formula includes increasing the number and availability of different cheese varieties, recruiting cheese masters from Europe and Wisconsin to expand into California and encouraging dairy families to make farmstead cheese.

Success is evident. When this campaign started 70 varieties were available, but by the end of 1999 there were 130 types of cheese. National and international cheese makers and companies have visited and some are in the process of expanding into the state. Finally, the campaign to attract local dairymen into the business has brought eight new cheese makers into the fold. Boudewyn hopes at least six new farmstead cheese makers will be added each year; each developing their own individual brands of cheese.

Of the success Fagundes has accomplished in just a year, Boudewyn says, "He's part of a revolution taking place in the state."

Sidebar:

In August, the American Cheese Society announced the winners of its prestigious competition recognizing the best American-made cheeses submitted for annual judging. Criteria included flavor, aroma, texture and technical evaluation. The 28 member judging team came from 10 states, 5 different countries and every area of expertise within the cheese field.

Fagundes Old-World Cheese Company was awarded a second place ribbon for its St. John Santa Fe flavored cheese.

"We are thrilled that our original old style family recipes are being recognized as one of the best in North America," said John Fagundes of the honor. "It's especially gratifying since we're relatively new to the cheese making business."

Fagundes cheese is available at Fagundes Agribusiness, 8700 Fargo Ave. in Hanford from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and until noon on Saturdays. The cheese is currently available at RN Market and SIMPLY FOODS. It is also sold in upscale specialty food stores in the Bay Area, Southern California, New York City with other locations being considered daily. Plans are also being finalized for the cheese to be sold in other local grocery stores. A new cheese store, CHEESE FACTORY OUTLET, featuring a number of farmstead varieties including Fagundes cheese, is now open at the Andersen's Split Pea complex in Selma. ###